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Different fabrics take on the dye differently

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From the 1970s onward the term is used in most volumes on Edwardian and Belle Epoque fashionprobably in part thanks to ex- Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, who highlighted the serpentine S-shape along with monobosom in the 1973 Met Costume Institute exhibit The 10s, the 20s, the 30s: Inventive Clothes 1909-1939. This anachronistic term most likely grew out of a particular and short-lived fad that began in 1905 inspired by the dancer La Sylphe (Edith Lambelle Langerfeld, 1883-1968)